24 December 1997
The New York Times
By The Associated Press

Christmas Returns To Cuba

HAVANA (AP) -- Segundo Falcon smiles wistfully at memories of Christmas before the revolution: fragrant pork on the table, danzon music on the Victrola, church bells clanging at midnight Mass as the statue of the Christ child was placed in the manger.

The 86-year-old man, sitting in a Havana home for the elderly, especially recalled the holiday songs, including a favorite by Cuban musician Barbarito Diez. ``When will Christmas Eve return?'' the refrain asks repeatedly, like an anxious child.

This year, Christmas Eve returned to Cuba.

For nearly three decades, Christmas Eve was just another night before just another work day in this communist and largely atheist country. Christmas as a holiday officially disappeared in 1969: President Fidel Castro said it was interfering with the upcoming sugar harvest.

But Christmas has been making a slow comeback since 1992, when the government began eliminating formal restrictions on religious worship. This year, with Pope John Paul II arriving for a visit next month, Christmas Eve celebrations are extra special. In honor of the visit, Castro -- at least for this year -- declared Dec. 25 an official holiday.

Roman Catholic churches throughout the country planned traditional midnight Masses -- and expected standing-room-only crowds. An especially large assembly was anticipated in Havana's cathedral for a Mass to be celebrated by Cardinal Jaime Ortega.

Protestant churches also scheduled special services.

Holiday items such as Christmas trees and cider sold out weeks ago. Families stretched tight by the economic crisis that began early this decade are somehow finding the money to buy pork, and candies for the children.

``After the revolution, people continued to celebrate some, but not like before,'' Falcon said. ``This year, they are celebrating again.''

Cubans lined up early Wednesday at one bustling market in the Vedado district to buy pork from the state for 15 pesos a pound -- 10 pesos less than what independent marketers were offering.

``The government guy sold about 1,000 pounds of pork and ran out just after noon,'' said Calo Alvarez, a private vendor who wielded a large butcher's knife to slice bacon.

In the aisle in front of him, shoppers carrying bags of yucca, black beans, rice, bananas and lettuce -- all the fixings for a traditional Cuban holiday meal -- elbowed each other in their rush to get home and start cooking.

The unusual Christmas rush in Havana comes four weeks before the pope's scheduled arrival for a five-day stay. The pontiff's impending visit infused holiday preparations with an air of anticipation.

``Christmas will be very special this year because the pope is coming,'' said Francisco Fernandez, 73, religious medallions pinned to his checkered cotton shirt.

Fernandez, like Falcon, lives at the home for the elderly run by the Roman Catholic Brothers of St. John of God. At the sprawling, two-story former hospital in the nation's capital, 11 members of the Spanish order care for 125 elderly people, most of them men.

Residents include atheists, Protestants, practitioners of the African-influenced Santeria as well as Catholics, director Manuel Colliga said.

But all seemed to share Falcon's fond memories of Christmases past and excitement about this Christmas. Strands of brightly colored cardboard hung from the ceiling of the foyer, reminding them that Dec. 25 was once again more than just another day.

For the religious, the decorations in the home's chapel held the most significance.

Life-sized statues of Mary and Joseph stood in a corner with an empty manger, waiting for the arrival of Baby Jesus. Between them was an artificial Christmas tree with flashing lights.

In the chapel's rear, shadow boxes showed scenes relating to Jesus' birth.

Such religious images remain relatively rare in Cuba, which became officially atheist three years after the 1959 revolution that brought Castro to power.

``For a while after the triumph of the revolution, the churches were empty,'' said Sergio Murgado, 76, a resident of the home. ``But now the churches are filled with young people, with children.

``The faith was never totally destroyed by ideology, by propaganda,'' the retired watchmaker said. ``Christmas never went away totally either. And now, we have much faith that we will realize our dreams as Christians.''

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